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Home and Family
What's So Special About Rayon?
by Nechama Berg

Rayon is a multi-faceted material. It can be found blended with cottons as well as with sumptuous velvets and taffetas. It is used in disposable diapers as well as in tire cords. What is this amazing fiber and is it the right choice for you?

Rayon was the first manufactured fiber. It was developed in France in the 1890's and was originally called "artificial silk." In 1924, the textile industry decided to utilize its many properties. Unlike most man-made fibers, rayon is not synthetic. It is made from wood pulp. As a result, rayon's properties are more similar to those of natural fibers, such as cotton or linen, than those of petroleum-based synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyester. Rayon's versatility as a fiber and its relatively low cost have increased its use in blending, but also encouraged its use in lower quality fabrics and garments.

Characteristics of Rayon

Rayon's cellulosic base contributes many properties similar to those of cotton or other natural cellulosic fibers. Rayon is moisture absorbent (more so than cotton), breathable, comfortable to wear, and easily dyed in vivid colors. It does not build up static electricity, nor will it pill unless the fabric is made from short, low-twist yarns.

Rayon is comfortable, soft to the skin, and has moderate dry strength and abrasion resistance. Like other cellulosic fibers, it is not resilient, which means that it will wrinkle. Rayon withstands ironing temperatures slightly less than those of cotton. It may be attacked by silverfish and termites, but generally resists insect damage. It may mildew but it can be easily remedied. One of rayon's strengths is its versatility and ability to blend easily with many fibers - - sometimes to reduce cost, other times for lustre, softness, or absorbency and resulting comfort. Rayon has moderate resistance to acids and alkalis and generally the fiber itself is not damaged by bleaches; however, dyes used in the fabric may experience color change. As a cellulosic fiber, rayon will burn, but flame retardant finishes are sometimes applied.

Care of Rayon Fabrics

Consumers should be aware of several cautions in relation to proper use and care of fabrics made from rayon fiber. Regular rayon has the tendency to shrink or stretch easily when wet. Although resin-treated rayons can sometimes be hand or machine washed with success, regular rayon normally requires dry cleaning to maintain appearance and shape.

Dyes or starches applied to rayon during finishing give body, sheen, luster and shape, and control relaxation shrinkage. In some instances, they may enhance strength. Unfortunately, some of them are sensitive to moisture. When moisture contacts them, the dye spreads to the edge of the wet spot, and forms a "ring" on the fabric. Raindrops, splashes from tap water, as well as water-based food substances will form dark rings on these fabrics. The rings may be difficult to remove without submerging the entire garment in water. This process can cause further damage to regular rayons, which have low wet strength. The spreading of dyes from moisture may make stain removal difficult in dry cleaned garments. Dry cleaning solvents are designed to remove oil- based stains. Water-based stains such as fruit juice, beverages, and certain foods require moisture for stain removal. While this process removes the stain, it may also leave a water spot ring. Also, as a result of the general dry cleaning process, swirls or waves may occur on the fabric surface which may not be removable.

Rayon fabrics may lose body or become limp over time due to numerous dry cleanings. The fabrics may also yellow over the course of time. The problem may be most noticeable on exposed areas such as collars, shoulders, and outside sleeves, especially on white or light-colored fabrics. Regular cleaning, often accompanied by bleaching, will correct the problem; however, this may cause additional damage from shrinkage or loss of body.

Other cautions related to rayons are pilling - the fibers mat together and form fiber balls or pills on the fabric surface. Pills may be "shaved" or clipped off; however, as this is done, fibers are being removed, creating a thinner layer of fabric. The problem is less likely to occur on fabrics with a hard surface and those made from longer, or higher twist yarns.

Rayon is a versatile fiber and is frequently found in blends with polyester, nylon and acrylic - all of which are synthetics and heat sensitive. These fibers generally contribute strength, wrinkle resistance, and ease of care to rayon blends. However, iron temperatures safe for rayon can be too hot and melt or fuse the heat-sensitive synthetic fibers. This process cannot be reversed and results in slits, tears or brittleness in the fabric.

To successfully care for rayon fabric, find out which rayon fiber you are dealing with. Regular rayons usually require dry cleaning for best results, while HWM rayons will normally machine wash and tumble dry satisfactorily.

Regular rayons are usually labeled as "dry clean only." Check and follow garment labels for instructions.

Since many dyes and finishes applied to regular rayon are moisture-sensitive, you should try to protect garments from contact with moisture. Bring your raincoat with you, even if it isn't raining yet. When washing hands or working in the kitchen, try to avoid splashing water on the garment.

Spills should be blotted with absorbent cloth to remove moisture. Use caution or avoid treating stained areas with water. Take garment to dry cleaner for stain removal. Rings or darker shading from dye spreading may be permanent.

Hand wash regular rayons with care. Always support wet fabrics, i.e., avoid wringing moisture from fabrics and gently squeeze out moisture and roll in a towel. Smooth and shape, then lay flat to dry.

If the item is not too heavy when wet, it can be hung on a non-rusting hanger.

When pressing regular rayon garments at home, be aware that steam irons can `spill' water on the garment, causing water spots. Press on the wrong side or use a press cloth on the right side to avoid shine or iron imprints. Use a rayon or synthetic setting on the iron.

When pressing blends, use the iron temperature for the most heat-sensitive fiber. Normally, a synthetic setting will be satisfactory.

Although rayon can look like wool, silk, cotton or linen, and is manufactured fiber like polyester, this doesn't mean it behaves like or has the same properties or care requirements of these fibers.

Rayon is an inexpensive and durable garment fiber. Treat it right and you'll get your money's worth.

 

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